After lunch at the legendary Populaire Le Saveur De Poisson, visit the Caves of Hercules. These caves, with their sea-opening shaped like Africa, have been used since Neolithic times and were mentioned by Pliny the Elder in 45 AD.
End your day at Café Hafa, opened in 1921 and a favorite haunt of artists and writers like Paul Bowles and the Rolling Stones. As you sip mint tea overlooking the Strait, reflect on Tangier's role as an international zone from 1923 to 1956, a period that cemented its reputation as a haven for artists, spies, and eccentric expatriates.
Overnight in a boutique riad, immersing yourself in traditional Moroccan architecture and hospitality.
Day 2: Larache and Asilah - Phoenician Roots and Artistic Renaissance
Today's journey takes you to two coastal gems, each with a unique story. Begin in Larache, founded by the Beni-Arous tribe in the 7th century and later developed by the Phoenicians as the ancient city of Lixus.
- Explore the ruins of Lixus, one of the oldest urban sites in Morocco. Here, archaeologists have uncovered:
- A Phoenician temple dedicated to Melqart, later converted to worship Hercules
- Roman baths adorned with intricate mosaics depicting marine life
- An amphitheater that could seat 15,000 spectators
Lixus was also famed in antiquity as the site of the mythical Gardens of the Hesperides, where Hercules completed one of his twelve labors.
Continue to Asilah, a town with a turbulent history transformed into an artistic haven. Founded as a Phoenician trading post in 1500 BC, Asilah was subsequently conquered by the Portuguese in 1471. The town's impressive ramparts, which you'll walk along, date from this period.
In the 1970s, Asilah underwent a remarkable transformation:
- Local artists, led by Mohamed Benaïssa, launched the International Cultural Moussem of Asilah in 1978.
- This annual arts festival has turned the town into a living canvas, with murals adorning the white-washed walls of the medina.
- Explore galleries showcasing works influenced by the town's unique blend of Moroccan and Andalusian cultures.
As you wander the blue and white streets, you're witnessing a town that has reinvented itself, using art to bridge its ancient past with a vibrant future.
Return to Tangier for an evening exploring Rue Mexique, where the multicultural spirit of old Tangier lives on in its eclectic mix of cafes, bars, and international cuisines.
Day 3: Tetouan - The White Dove of Morocco
Today, journey to Tetouan, known as "The White Dove" for its gleaming buildings nestled against the Rif Mountains. Tetouan's history is inextricably linked with the fall of Granada in 1492:
- Founded in the 3rd century BC, Tetouan was rebuilt in the 15th century by Andalusian refugees fleeing the Spanish Reconquista.
- It became a vital link between Morocco and Andalusia, preserving Andalusian art, architecture, and crafts.
Begin at Place Hassan II, where the ornate Bab Er-Rouah gate marks the entrance to the Royal Palace, built in the 17th century on the site of the former Kasbah.
Next, explore the UNESCO World Heritage medina:
- Walk through the Ensanche, the Spanish Quarter built during the Protectorate era (1912-1956), noting its unique blend of Art Deco and Neo-Moorish styles.
- Visit the Ethnographic Museum, housed in a 19th-century fortress, to understand the region's Amazigh, Arab, and Jewish heritage.
- Discover the mellah, established in 1807, once home to a thriving Jewish community that played a crucial role in Tetouan's commerce and diplomacy.
Tour the School of Traditional Arts, founded in 1919, which continues to preserve centuries-old Moroccan crafts:
- Observe students practicing intricate zellij tilework, a hallmark of Moroccan architecture.
- See the creation of complex geometric patterns in wood and plaster, techniques brought from Al-Andalus.
End your day with a visit to the Grand Mosque, built in 1808 on the site of a smaller 15th-century mosque. Its minaret, visible throughout the medina, stands as a symbol of Tetouan's enduring Islamic heritage.
As you return to Tangier, reflect on how Tetouan's history embodies Morocco's complex cultural tapestry, where Amazigh, Arab, Jewish, and European influences have intertwined over centuries.